Our trip south for our stay at Barefoot Heaven Hill resort began at the Hua Hin train station around sunset when our overnight sleeper train arrived to pick us up. This in itself is an adventure which I would highly recommend if you want a taste of the real Thailand! The next morning found us in Trang where we breakfasted on a kind of fruitcake for which the town is famous and rented a motorcycle for the one hour trip to Heaven Hill Resort located in the seaside village of Had Yao.
From her gracious welcome on, Khun Poo was an amazing host! She and her housekeeper even helped us put up our tent and throughout our stay treated us like family. Suffice it to say that the site is gorgeous with spectacular views all around, P’Poo and her staff could not have been more friendly and accommodating and our stay was totally worth the long train trip down and back. We spent a lot of time enjoying the pool!
We were fascinated by this shower built into tree. The whole resort has a very natural and calm atmosphere focused on nature. . .despite the rather utilitarian buildings. The dining area is especially nice for relaxing and enjoying the views in every direction . . .obviously only possible if you are actually on a hill as this resort is. You get to watch the sunrise and the sunset from the pool deck. The hill where the resort is built is a perfect spot and if Had Yao village had been your typical Buddhist village, this is where the temple would have been built.
Part 2 The beach
It is a beach within walking distance of Heaven Hill. . .deserted, stunningly beautiful and hard to reach. There appear to be two ways to walk to it, neither of them easy. We came to it from the east from a small, undeveloped tourist area called Had Yao. It’s a very laid-back, casual kind of place no umbrellas or beach chairs or roving venders of dubious fried chicken in sight. The little family restaurants are friendly places and the food is good. The place we rented the kayak is Seaview.
We knew it was there behind this great rocky monolith and our first attempt was to swim or walk around it. Not possible we found, as the tide was too high and swimming around with our belongings didn’t seem to be a great idea so we rented a kayak and reached it easily. It seems that you can walk around the rocks when the tide is low. We explored the coast past the beach to see what was there. Evidently you can access the beach from the other side as well, passing a series of smaller beaches and inlets. From the other side it appears that you start with a wide, sunny piney beach. Being naked we didn’t explore further.
The beach is 95% in its natural, pristine state. Amazingly it is clean with no other sign of human life except in the odd corners where the highest tide has reached. Except for the occasional passing longtail ferry boat the beach is peaceful and timeless. This makes it unique and special. It certainly rates as the best naturist beach we have even been on and our time there will never be forgotten. Indeed, only the opportunity to share it with naturist friends would have added to the pleasure. (OK . . .and maybe a picnic or BBQ.)
The beach is just down the hill from Barefoot Heaven Hill Resort. We had it all to ourselves for two glorious mornings. It is . . .that wonder of wonders . . .a shady beach because of the huge rock formations. (We arent fans of tanning.) We were joined by a fellow naturist on the first day. We didnt meet him as he seemed to want privacy. On the second morning, as we were deciding to leave and the sun was rolling around, a tour boat drove up and disgorged a bevy of well dressed tourists for a beach BBQ. This made naturism impossible of course, so we were out of there in ten minutes. This “nude beach” is like every beach in Thailand . . . “nude” if there are no others around.
This beach certainly deserves being ranked as a number one naturist beach! Surrounded by massive limestone rock formations, some of them fantastic in size and shape, it is pristine and unbelievably clean which, considering the state of the surrounding village is nothing short of a miracle. It has both sun and shade, lots of small caves and inlets nearby to explore. . .it is just hard to imagine any more perfect spot in which to spend a leisurely naked morning enjoying nature as we were meant to.